Still Crazy

The craft distillery boom has made Washington fertile ground for sipping magnates.

A.J. Rathbun | January 2012 | FROM THE PRINT EDITION

Credit: Stuart Isett

Looking like something from a Jules Verne adventure, the still at Woodinville Whiskey Company ferments mash for bourbon.

Washington’s distillery boom dates back to April 10, 2007, when the Dry Fly distillery in Spokane opened its doors. At the time, regulations reined in its ability to have a tasting room on site. The liquor landscape opened much wider in March 2008, when the Legislature approved a new “craft-distillery” bill (thanks in large part to Dry Fly’s lobbying), making it possible to serve half-ounce samples, provided a distillery followed guidelines that limit production to less than 20,000 gallons a year with at least half of the raw materials grown in state.

One of the defining characteristics of Washington state distillers is an absolute devotion to high-quality ingredients. From the Woodinville Whiskey Company hand-selecting grains straight from eastern Washington farms to Sun Liquor using local organic botanicals, distillers painstakingly research and test ingredients to find the finest. At the time of this writing, 37 craft distillery licenses had been approved by the state since 2007. Washington consumers obviously like well-made spirits. Here are 12 you ought to taste.

Ebb+Flow Vodka, $32
A full-bodied vodka whose 100 percent malted barley construction doesn’t keep it from leaving a little sweetness and vanilla on the tongue.
Sound Spirits, Seattle; drinksoundspirits.com

Headlong White Dog Whiskey, $34.95
An unaged whiskey, this dog cuddles up close with its bright combination of buttercream, grain and smooth spiciness. Woodinville Whiskey Company; woodinvillewhiskeyco.com

Legacy Vodka, $32.95
This rich, flavorful all-organic vodka boasts a hint of spring with citrus and vanilla blooming alongside its wheat base. Bainbridge Organic Distillers; bainbridgedistillers.com

Pacifique Absinthe, $62.95
Transport yourself to turn-of-the-century France with this absinthe’s classical mix of anise, fennel, wormwood and other spices. Pacific Distillery, Woodinville; pacificdistillery.com

Mischief Whiskey, $32.95
This 8-year-old rye-based Canadian-made whiskey features an intriguing spiciness mingling with oak, and a sweet vanilla and caramel finale. Mischief Distillery, Seattle; fremontmischief.com

Grappa Giallo, $34
Aging six months in French oak gives this
grappa a distinctive personality that brings apples, pears and fresh hay together. Soft Tail Spirits, Woodinville; softtailspirits.com

Washington Wheat Whiskey, $49.95
Wheat notes abound in this easygoing whiskey, socializing with hints of toffee, oak and a long pepper-dotted finale. Dry Fly Distilling, Spokane; dryflydistilling.com

Hedge Trimmer Gin, $29.95
In the classic style, this gin has a balanced juniper taste, underlined by herbal and spice notes, making it suitable for cocktails or sipping neat.
Sun Liquor Distillery, Seattle; sunliquor.com

Voyager Dry Gin, $25.90
This London dry-style gin is in the traditional manner, with a confident juniper top end underlined by citrus and spice suggestions. Pacific Distillery, Woodinville; pacificdistillery.com

Samish Bay Whiskey, $35.95
Here’s a welcoming single malt with a pleasing grain and oak taste. Its smoothness is both mixable and sippable. Golden Distillery, Bow; goldendistillery.com

Skip Rock Vodka, $33.95
This singular vodka incorporates Yukon gold potatoes, which add an elemental complexity that finishes briskly and a touch sweet. Skip Rock Distillers, Snohomish; skiprockdistillers.com

Chilean-style Brandy, $47.75
This honey-colored brandy isn’t shy about its grape and wine base, and it delivers a hint of a kick as it goes down. It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere Distillery, Cashmere; 5oclocksomewheredistillery.com